These 7 Skincare Myths are Sabotaging Your Skincare Routine
Photos by Haley Chicoine Photography
Skincare has been a hot topic of conversation lately as information about products, skin concerns, and personal skin testimonies become more accessible through fast-paced mediums such as Instagram and TikTok. I absolutely love that these platforms have opened the door for more people to explore skincare and dive into learning about their own skin, but unfortunately, these platforms are also a breeding ground for questionable marketing strategies, biased sources, and general misinformation.
When I started my skincare journey I was struggling with severe hormonal acne and I was desperate to find a cure. I invested a lot of time, money, and energy into experimenting with skincare products and immersing myself in research. Over the years I have gotten to serve as a skincare specialist with Sephora which allowed me to learn from prominent voices in the skincare and dermatology industries while sampling products from cutting-edge brands.
These experiences taught me to unpack my own skincare biases and look objectively at information about beauty products, and I want to share some of my insight with you! Today we are going to debunk seven of the most common skincare myths I have encountered over my years working in the beauty industry so that you can make educated decisions about your skincare and achieve your best skin!
Facial massage helps tone your facial muscles to give you a more sculpted look
Viral beauty lovers everywhere, please do not come for me. During quarantine, the popularity of facial massage, jade rollers, and Gua Sha became more popular than ever. While these beauty regimens have proven benefits, the messaging surrounding them became inundated with misleading dialogues on “toning the facial muscles” and changing the facial structure simply through facial massage.
Sorry folks, but facial massage and Gua Sha do not work by toning your facial muscles. Rather, facial massage and Gua Sha help promote lymphatic drainage that can cause puffiness and dullness in the complexion. Additionally, these facial massage routines also increase blood flow to the massaged area which allows for more oxygen and nutrients to flow to the skin, resulting in plumper, more glowing skin. After relieving this lymphatic buildup and promoting this increased blood flow, the face often looks leaner and more sculpted, hence the misconception that these techniques tone the muscles in the face.
It is important to note that the practice of Gua Sha is a traditional Chinese practice and is most effective when following traditional Chinese guidelines (click here to learn more). Additionally, if you choose to purchase a Gua Sha stone, I would encourage you to do so from a Chinese-owned business to pay homage and respect to the practice’s cultural history.
2. You can shrink your pores
As a long-time acne sufferer, I have quite the collection of enlarged pores that stretch across my nose and cheeks, and for years I bought every “pore-shrinking” skincare product that hit the market. So imagine my surprise and disappointment when I learned that pores cannot “shrink” once opened!
Here’s the science: pores are essential to the health of our skin -- they release important oils that keep our skin hydrated, smooth, and supple. But over time our pores can become larger -- mostly due to genetics or certain skin conditions like acne. Once enlarged, a pore cannot become smaller because the pore tissue is not “elastic.”. So why do so many companies advertise “pore-shrinking” skincare products?
It may seem sneaky, but these products do not actually advertise shrinking pores -- rather, they advertise minimizing the appearance of pores. When an enlarged pore collects dead skin cells, dirt, or sebum, it can become dark and appear to be larger than it really is. These pore-minimizing products often help clean out the pore by removing buildup from within it and exfoliating the area. The result is a brighter, smaller-looking pore. Additionally, some cooling products such as facemasks or ice rollers also give the appearance of a smaller pore by causing the skin to constrict and “tighten,” but this is only a temporary effect and will wear off as soon as the skin returns to a normal temperature.
So if you struggle with enlarged pores and want to minimize their appearance, I recommend incorporating a good chemical exfoliator once or twice a week, and a clay mask once a week. I’ve linked a few below that I feel have made a noticeable difference in my overall skincare routine as well as the appearance of my pores.
3. Sun exposure is good for acne
There are so many things I love about summer: the warmth, the fashion, the sunsets at the beach. But if there is anything about summer that makes me cringe it is the “my acne gets so much better when I tan” conversations. While your acne may appear to be reduced after hours of sun exposure, it is likely that your blemishes are simply less noticeable against tanned skin. Additionally, there is little to no science that proves that sun exposure actually heals acne, and in fact, most studies show that the sun is doing much more harm than good when it comes to your skin.
I know what you’re thinking: “But, Valerie, aren’t estheticians and cosmetic surgeons using light therapy in their skincare treatments?” I’m so glad you asked! There are certain experimental light therapies -- such as blue light and red light -- that have been shown to kill certain bacteria on the skin and reduce sebum which can in turn help reduce acne. But it has not been proven that these specific lights and frequencies are provided by the sun. Even if they were, in order to benefit from those specific rays, you would also have to expose your skin to dangerous UVA and UVB rays that are directly related to sunburns, sun spots, premature aging, and skin cancer.
Want to minimize the appearance of acne and enjoy a sunkissed glow? I highly recommend investing in a customized acne treatment such as Curology and enjoying a sunless tanner such as my tried-and-true favorite, Loving Tan Official. And, don’t forget your daily SPF (a few of my favorites are linked below)!
4. “Clean” beauty products are better for the skin
If you have followed me or my blog for a while, then you probably already know my stance on this one. While you may be able to rummage through my skincare shelves and find countless “clean” products that I use and love, I am not a huge advocate for “clean” skincare, and I definitely don’t believe that they are inherently better for the skin.
Recent conversations about clean skincare seem to suggest that products with natural or organic ingredients are better for the skin and your overall health, but this belief is not supported by science or industry experts -- and there are a few key reasons as to why:
The term “clean skincare” is not regulated and has no universal standards. That means that what may be considered clean to one brand does not align with what is clean to another. This creates a lot of confusion about what ingredients are and are not considered clean.
While there are many natural ingredients that are highly beneficial for the skin, there are countless others that are not only not beneficial but are actually harmful to the skin! For example, while I love using a plant-derived vitamin C serum, I definitely would not like to have an extract of poison ivy in my moisturizer even though it is “natural” and “organic.” While this is an extreme example, many natural, organic ingredients commonly found in skincare -- such as essential oils -- can cause severe skin sensitivities and reactions.
“Natural” ingredients can be more difficult to preserve which jeopardizes the shelf life, performance, and integrity of your products. This is important to remember especially when investing in a product that you may not use daily such as a face mask. If a skincare product is going to be sitting on your vanity for a few months, the likelihood that it will expire and grow mold is significantly higher in a natural product as opposed to a clinical product.
Now, this is not meant to deter you from using plant-based skincare products. However, I want you to equip yourself with the knowledge that “clean” does not inherently mean “better for your skin,” and “clinical” does not imply “dangerous” or “toxic.” Some of my favorite skincare products and brands are conventionally considered “clean beauty” brands, but their products have undergone rigorous testing and the brands challenge themselves to educate on plant-based skincare as opposed to simply depending on green-screening and scare tactics to sell their products.
5. People with oily skin don’t need to moisturize
This is such an incredibly common misconception that I myself believed it for years! As I struggled with my acne, I thought that the best course of action was to try and reduce any and all traces of oil on my skin. But despite drying my skin out with harsh astringents and avoiding moisturizers like the plague, my oil production did not decrease -- in fact, it increased exponentially! After all that effort, I was left with a collection of expensive skincare products that were making my skin more irritated, and skin that resembled a potato chip: flaky and dry yet oily and shiny. UGH.
Here’s the nitty-gritty: hydrated skin is healthy skin, and too often we confuse oily skin with hydrated skin. Our skin needs a balance of both oil and water in the skin to stay healthy, plump, and hydrated. But when our skin is dehydrated and thirsty it will often overproduce oil in response. Moisturizing is the process of adding more hydration (read: water) to the skin which ultimately helps create the necessary balance within the skin so that it does not overproduce oil or develop a dry, flaky texture.
I always recommend a gel-based moisturizer during the day for my oil-prone clients and a richer moisturizer in the evening. I also suggest avoiding moisturizers that have oils in them as this can exacerbate the oiliness. Some people who have oily skin also find that just wearing a rich moisturizer at night and a lightweight hyaluronic acid serum during the day is enough hydration for their needs. But remember, even if you opt to not wear moisturizer during the day you still need an SPF!
6. You only need to wear sunscreen on sunny days
I will keep this short and sweet: if you are going outside, you need to wear SPF every day. If you stay inside all day but sit near a window, you need to wear SPF every day. If you plan on sitting in a dark room with windows drawn all day, you are the exception and do not have to wear SPF, but I would recommend maybe picking up a hobby and getting outside (in which case you will have to -- you guessed it -- wear SPF). Even on cloudy days, the sun continues to emit dangerous UV rays that penetrate clouds and damage our skin. While you may not be able to get a tan on a cloudy day, you can unfortunately still get sun damage that may result in premature aging, sunspots, and even skin cancer.
7. Makeup causes acne and premature aging
I was scrolling through TikTok the other day and came across a video of an absolutely stunning girl who showed how she used makeup to cover some of her acne. It was obvious that she was a very talented makeup artist and her final look was beautiful! When I opened her comments section I was expecting words of encouragement and praise, but was disappointed to see how many people left her nasty comments like “you wouldn’t have so much acne if you wore less makeup.”
I wish I could say that I was surprised to see these comments, but unfortunately, they are far more common than I would like to admit. When my acne was at its worst, makeup was my only saving grace. I was too embarrassed to leave the house without it even for essential errands like going to the grocery store. But I frequently encountered people who told me that my makeup was to blame for my acne which only made me feel worse and more insecure.
Friends, there are so many nuanced causes of acne -- gut health, hormones, medications, etc. -- but makeup is not one of them. As a makeup artist and skincare lover, I would be lying if I said that makeup does not ever contribute to acne, but rarely does it cause it. In fact, according to the American Academy of Dermatology, when proper hygiene is maintained (i.e. washing your makeup off every night), daily makeup use rarely even contributes to acne, especially when using non-comedogenic products.
If you have acne-prone skin and want to make sure you don’t exacerbate your acne with your cosmetics, avoid products with fragrance and look to invest in products that are labeled “non-comedogenic” (translation: this won’t clog your pores). Additionally, make sure to practice good makeup hygiene: wash your brushes and sponges weekly, wash your makeup off thoroughly every night, and avoid using products that are expired.
Were you surprised by any of these debunked skincare myths? I truly believe that knowledge is power and that everyone can achieve their dream skin when equipped with the proper information and products. Now that we have debunked these common skincare myths, I hope you feel educated, empowered, and ready to embrace your skin right where it is on your skincare journey!
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